Get ready for a forest fruits party with this version of Sweetshop! From Peru’s Chirinos district, producer Clever Acosta’s natural process Bourbon variety contributes a jammy texture while Itumpi from Tanzania gives redcurrant acidity and elderflower notes.

Clever Acosta was an early adopter of the “drying house,” now common in northern Peru. These covered structures allow coffee to dry more consistently, relying on airflow more than sun to evaporate moisture. This becomes critical for natural-process coffees: leaving the fruit on means more water, and drying can take two to three times as long. Clever’s farm was originally a nutrient-depleted cow pasture, and his quality has improved each year due to his systematic regeneration of the soil. Acosta also built his own cupping lab, underscoring his personal engagement with quality.

Serendipity granted us some Tanzanian newcomers in this spring’s shop, including Itumpi! Southern Tanzanian coffees were a focus for us circa 2018-2019, and we even had the chance to visit the Songwe area before the pandemic. The intriguing notes of pineapple, lemongrass, and red berries in this lot from Itumpi AMCOS (Agricultural Marketing Co-operative Society) restarted the conversation with that nostalgic supply chain.